Ernesto Naranjo Madrid Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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Ernesto Naranjo studied at Central Saint Martins and worked with John Galliano at Maison Margiela, but deep down he always knew he had to go back to his roots. “In London I was always the Spanish designer, so it made sense to make sure my clothes were Spanish as well,” he says. Eventually he returned to his Andalusian village, Pilas, to launch his own brand. “When you work in fashion, you are always surrounded by photographers, stylists, and other designers. Coming to my hometown and making an honest product is what I always wanted.”

Seven years and seven collections later Naranjo has certainly found his voice. “Volume, texture, and color have always defined my collections,” he says. “For this last one, I went for darker and more dramatic pieces, even though ironically they are more ready-to-wear than ever. Considering the circumstances and the lack of events, it made more sense for us to focus on apparel that could also work as separates.” Naranjo’s cottons and wools are post-pandemic ready too. “Everything is stretchy,” he points out. “Most of my clients are older women who know exactly what works on them and want to be comfortable no matter what.”

His commitment to inclusivity extends to his models. “You see, my casting has always been inclusive and formed by real women I meet on the street or through Instagram. There is an explanation for this: I want to make sure my designs fit them well.” Naranjo named the new collection 007. “I imagined these real women who support each other and stand for seven unbreakable values: braveness, diversity, inclusivity, freedom, equality, irony, and intelligence,” he explains.

The designer is very much committed to these values himself, but he also stands for another: sustainability. This comes via his local production and his upcycling policy, which includes using deadstock textiles and pieces from previous collections. “We always use fabrics from other brands and try to make them ours by adding embroideries or prints, but we also reuse our own. I either restyle the clothes to make them appealing again, or I take old creations and redesign them, like I did with some of our coats, which are now skirts and shirts.”

With tops that become skirts and skirts that end up as shirts, there is no doubt that Naranjo believes in the concept of second lives. And at the moment, his own renewal as a solo designer is going as brightly as the second lives he gives his clothes.



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